This topic contains 7 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by  SuperDroid 5 years, 2 months ago.

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  • #1252
     magnethead 
    Participant

    I’m looking for a switch like the pico/battle/dual/8A switches, that run off the servo channel. But I have a particular need- a 2 circuit type where 1-1.4ms is one circuit on, 1.6ms>-2ms is another circuit on, with both circuits off along the 1.5ms neutral position. Specifically, i’m dealing to interface with the ON-OFF-ON switches of the Taranis 9.

    The DPDT board I think could do this (helpful that it comes disassembled) but without a schematic, i’m not really sure how it’s set up. Having a signal-good output does no good use for me.

    #1253
     magnethead 
    Participant

    seems to me that the SPST relay is powered on (darlington sink) by any non-neutral value, and the DPDT relay is powered on (darlington sink) on a <1.5ms signal. The SPST relay switches the hot lead going to the DPDT center contacts, and the DPDT has the X arrangement for reversing output polarity.

    Say, for my situation, I want 1-1.4ms to turn on my visible light LED array, 1.6-2ms to turn on my IR LED array, and for both to be off in the 1.5ms neutral zone.

    If I treat the DPDT relay as a logical rectifier, then I can connect the positive side of both arrays to +12V, the ground side of visible light to M1, and the ground side of IR to M2.

    If my rough idea is correct:

    When M1 is 12V and M2 is ground, the IR should light because high side has voltage and low side is grounded. Visibile should stay off because high side has voltage and low side has voltage.

    When M1 is ground and M2 is 12V, then IR should stay off because high side has voltage and low side has voltage, and visible should come on because high side has voltage and low side has ground.

    Is this correct?

    #1254
     SuperDroid 
    Keymaster

    Part Number: TE-082-502
    Link: http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/item.aspx/dpdt-8a-relay-rc-switch/766/

    The DPDT RC Switch is designed to work as a simple RC motor or actuator driver. If you look at the terminal block on the top side you will see it labeled:

    M1 | M2 | +V | S2 | S2 | S1 | S1 | GND

    The power terminals are what will be routed to the M1 and M2 terminals depending on the input signals provided. The S1 and S2 terminal pairs are intended for limit switches. If you do not need or want this functionality, you can either run a wire between the terminals or bridge the solder pads on the underside of the board.

    As for how it works. There is an board microcontroller that looks at the input RC signal. It uses this signal to toggle between three states. When the RC signal is neutral (center) or non-existent, neither of the relays will be thrown. This will leave M1 and M2 floating.

    When the RC signal is above center (>1.6 ms) the microcontroller will use the high current driver to turn on the relays in order to connect M1 to motor power (+V terminal) and connects M2 to ground.

    When the RC signal is below center (<1.4ms) the microcontroller will use the driver to route M2 to motor power (+V) and M1 to ground.

    As for the LEDs, the red LEDs at the bottom of the board will tell you which relay is being actuated by the motor controller. The yellow RC status LED is as follows:

    Solid ON - Valid RC signal, center stick
    Solid OFF - Valid RC signal, actuating the relays in either direction
    Blinking - Timeout condition, no valid RC signal found.

    #1255
     magnethead 
    Participant

    That doesn’t answer my question. Will my description above work by connecting my visible and InfraRed LED arrays to M1 and M2 as described?

    #1256
     SuperDroid 
    Keymaster

    Why would you want to use this relay switch for LEDs? M1 and M2 are reversing loads. Its a reversing relay switch to put a motor forward and reverse and utilize limit switches. A single channel relay switch like the battle switch or pico switch will be a much easier solution. or any of the mosfet switches.

    http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/category.aspx/rc-switches/70/

    other than that you will have to come up with a custom solution…

    #1257
     magnethead 
    Participant

    because I have to stack 15 functions onto a 12 channel 433MHz radio system (Dragon Link) and Tarranis 9. Thus i’m going to use one of the 3 way switches which are 1000us down (on), 1500us off, 2000us up (on). Down will turn on visible light and up will turn on infrared. Thus using the DPDT relay board, I can use the inverted polarities to turn the LED’s on/off.

    Or if dimension engineering can make a picoswitch that is on at 1000-1480 and off from 1520-2000 (reverse of current version), that would work too.

    A1 throttle / brake ………… (right joy vertical) – no spring
    A2 steer ………… (right joy horizontal)
    D1 boom tilt up/down ………… (digital 1) (on-off-on)
    A3 boom rotate left/right ………… (right knob)
    A4 camera tilt up/down ………… (left joy vertical) – no spring
    A5 camera pan left/right ………… (left joy horizontal) – no spring (both pan servos on Y cable)
    A6 claw arm up/down ………… (front slider 1)
    A7 claw arm rotate ………… (front slider 2)
    A8 claw open/close ………… (left knob)
    D2 crabsteer/countersteer and cargo bay door ………… (digital 2) (on/off/on + picoswitch + DPDT relay + programmable servo)
    D3 visible lights on/IR lights on ………… (digital 3) (on/off/on + DPDT board)
    D4 Video Camera A/B Switch …………. (digital 4) (on/off/on)

    • This reply was modified 5 years, 2 months ago by  magnethead.
    • This reply was modified 5 years, 2 months ago by  magnethead.
    #1260
     magnethead 
    Participant

    I just called dimension E, they said they are working on a programmable version of the pico/battleswitch line that should come out some time next year.

    #1261
     SuperDroid 
    Keymaster

    if you hook the LEDs in one polarity across M1 and M2 and the other LEDs in the other polarity across M1 and M2 I am guessing that will work. the limit switches would have to be jumpered and you would only be able to drive one set at a time. Not the most elegant of solutions… As mentioned it looks like a custom solution. We could design and build something for you if you don’t want to wait for Dimension Engineering. The other would be to take our 4 relay boards or or a 7 channel high current driver depending on the load and drive them with a arduino and read your radio inputs into the arduino and command the relays to do what you want when you want…

    http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/item.aspx/7-chan-high-cur-ttl-driver-with-4-power-5v-relays/180/

    http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/item.aspx/7-channel-high-current-ttl-driver/178/

    http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/item.aspx/arduino-uno-r3/1293/

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